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Tags: Kon Tum, Dat Cam, Anh Lam, Ve Tay Nguyen, Tay Nguyen, mon an, Le La, dac trung, dac san, cua Anh, chua chua, goi, nguoi, rung, loai Chua chua, cay cay, thom thom, nong nong… la nhung huong vi dac trung cua mon la rung ma nguoi Tay Nguyen goi la “le la” hay “goi la”.
50 loai la cho mot bua an
Tai quan goi cua Le Van Lam (Dinh Tien Hoang – thi xa Kon Tum, khi toi ngo y an thu, anh Lam cuoi bao thong cam, phai dat truoc de anh co thoi gian vao rung tim la vi mua kho, nhung loai la chua benh nay rat hiem.
Anh hen toi chieu hom sau ghe lai, nhat dinh anh se dai chung toi mon “le la” dac san cua Kon Tum.
Hom sau tan cuoc hop, toi cung cac chien huu quay lai quan cua anh Lam de duoc thuong thuc mon an doc dao nay. Giu loi hua, anh Lam da cho nguoi chuan bi 2 chiec ban thap phu day cac loai la rung va mot vai la vuon duoc xep that ngay ngan va thu tu. O chinh giua la do uong va do cuon. Tat thay phai co den 50 loai la.
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| Anh Lam huong dan khach cuon goi la |
Anh Lam bao nhung loai la nay anh vua hai tren rung Dat Cam, Kon Po Nay…, chi co 1 so la gia vi an kem thi duoc hai trong vuon nha. Lan dau tien, moi nguoi an chua quen nen anh phai huong dan ky cac buoc, cach quan la de tranh…. bi tieu chay!
Moi nghe qua, chung toi hoa ca mat vi ten la va trinh tu an: La mo, ma de, oi, ngo gai, can kho, dinh lang, dung, coc, tram, sung, man, la lop, xoai, vong, sau rieng, nhat nguyet, nhan long, sam dat (tho cao li sam), hoang ngoc, bua, que, diep ca, kinh gioi, tia to, cho de, cam thao dat, cai troi, xuan thu, la gai (bi thuong han bo 1 it muoi hot vao loai la nay cuon lai an thi se do), tho phuc linh, gung, cai, bong tho, luoc vang, kim cang, ngu gia bi, bo cong anh, mo long…
Trong khi an, gap la hinh pheu, cho them hanh la, nhan, muoi, da lon, tom. Di nhien, mon an khong the thieu mot qua ot cam giua, vua trang diem, vua dua cay.
Don thoi nguon goc
An “le la” neu noi mot cach don gian la… dong nguoi cung an la! Mon an doc dao nay xuat hien dau tien o vung bac Tay Nguyen, cho den khi dac san nay tro thanh thu am thuc va chua benh cua nguoi dan Kon Tum thi sau do cac tinh nhu Dak Lak, Gia Lai cung da pho bien...
Nhung nguoi sanh an cho biet, mon an la nay xuat phat tu gia dinh ong Le Van Nhon (80 tuoi) o thi xa Kon Tum. Ay la sau nam 1975, co mot nguoi ban (nguyen la bo doi Truong Son nam xua) tu Bac vao tham ong Nhon.
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| Mot cuon goi la da duoc hoan chinh |
Gap nhau mung mung tui tui, cung nhau uong chen ruou. Ruou thi san co, nhung lai thieu mat moi. Nguoi bo doi kia moi tro tai hai rau rung lam… moi tam. Mot lan an thu thay mon la rung ngon, lan khac co ban nhau den lai lam nua. Khi cang ngay cang co nhieu nguoi chu y den, nam 1995, ong Nhon da mo tiem kinh doanh goi la.
Cung co nguoi cho rang, mon goi la “phat tich” tu quan cua anh Le Van Lam. Anh Lam ke, 10 nam truoc, anh vao Tay Ninh tham may nguoi ban. Qua cuoc nhau, may ban cua anh da hai rat nhieu la rung ve an chung voi nuoc mam.
Thay cai mon la la, hay hay co the chua duoc cam mao va mot so loai benh nua, anh Lam hoc hoi “bi quyet” va ve Kon Tum mo quan nhau choi. Ai de, nhau riet roi dong khach, thay ho “hao” cai mon nay, the la anh quyet dinh khuech truong quan thanh quan dac san am thuc goi la.
Khong the gion voi la
La rung co nhieu loai huu ich cho suc khoe, nhung cung khong it loai an tang doc duoc chet nguoi. Di nhien, khi lam mon an, khong the dua gion duoc.
Theo anh Lam, ngoai viec tim hieu tu ban be o Tay Ninh, anh da khao cuu rat ky cac loai cay thuoc de che bien cac mon an nay. Chinh vi vay, nhung cuon sach ve cay thuoc nhu cua Do Tat Loi, Vo Van Chai luon la tai lieu goi dau giuong cua anh Lam.
Anh Lam cat nghia: “Nguoi ta noi “di an le la” cung co nghia la nghi le, tet, ngay nghi thi di an la. Khi da quan la thanh cuon roi thi phai biet cach an thi moi co cam giac ngon. Phai an “tom” mieng lai, can mot phat la phai het tat ca cac la, moi thuong thuc duoc vi ngon cua no. Do la mot huong vi rat dac trung, khi thi cay cay, khi thi chua chua, khi chat chat, khi lai bui bui, thom nong…
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| Nhung gia vi an kem goi la |
Khi an goi la khong duoc uong bia ma phai uong ruou vi men bia song de dau bung. Ruou thi duoc ngam tu re cay dinh lang, uong kem khi an goi la thi moi dung cach va… sanh dieu”.
Mon nhan an kem goi la duoc lay tu xac hem (ba) ruou gao, roi xao chung voi tom, trung de “tro luc” cho he thong tieu hoa. Anh Lam noi, la rung thi ai cung co the hai, nhung nhan la bi quyet rieng cua moi gia dinh.
Anh chia se: "Thit nac, thit ca loc, tom kho, tom tuoi deu duoc bam nho, tron deu voi xac hem ruou va trung roi nau. Mot to nuoc cham hoan chinh thi phai o dang sen set, khong qua dac de de muc up len goi la duoc cuon hinh pheu". Noi vay nhung chung toi hieu, quy trinh che bien rat ky cong va phuc tap.
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Luong y Nguyen Tan Hy (Dao Duy Tu - Kon Tum):
“Trong mon goi la, quan trong nhat la la rung tu nhien, dam bao la sach. Trong do co cac cong dung nhu: la oi (la cam) va la sung giup nguoi ta khong bi tieu chay; dinh lang thi bo nhu sam, rat tot vi no lam mat nguoi, ho tro than kinh. La canh gioi (kinh gioi) tri gioi bo rat nhanh va hieu qua
Noi chung nhung loai la, loai rau trong mon goi la deu co tac dung chua benh rat tot, nhieu nguoi nho an mon dac san nay thuong xuyen ma co the chua duoc benh dau da day, cao huyet ap, tham chi con giup cho benh tieu duong va soi than suy giam nua”.
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Vietbao (Theo: megafun.vn)
Tìm hiểu: Kon Tum, Dat Cam, Anh Lam, Ve Tay Nguyen, Tay Nguyen, mon an, Le La, dac trung, dac san, cua Anh, chua chua, goi, nguoi, rung, loai |
